Posts Tagged ‘combustion chamber’

How Does An Oil Burner Mechanism Work?

Thursday, February 25th, 2010
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Most homes that are situated in the more colder climates of the US are outfitted with oil fired furnaces or boilers that run on #2 heating oil (almost the same as diesel fuel but without the additive package).

In the heart of these heating systems is the oil burner. This is the actual mechanism that burns the fuel to create the heat source, or the flame. If this device does not work the rest of the equipment will not work either. This is why I think it is important for every homeowner to know exactly how oil burners operate so that if they fail you have a general idea of how diagnose and fix them (either by yourself or by a certified heating technician).

The Process of How Oil Burners Run A Furnace or Boiler

1. There is a device called an aquastat that triggers the power. When this happens the electric power to the heating system you have is turned on. The electricity that goes to your burners or boiler is controlled by a safety control called a Cad Cell relay.

2. Once the electricity is turned on the heart of your heating system, the oil burner, commences its operation. When it starts to receive electricity the electric motor within the system causes a shaft to rotate.

3. Then the shaft under oil burner starts to rotate. Without going into detail this starts the air blower and oil pump.

4.  As the fan on your oil burner is spinning it is drawing air through the intake system slots. This air will be used for the combustion process.  The heating oil has to be mixed with air to ignite properly.

5. At the same time as the fan is drawing air the motor shaft, which runs off of electricity, is driving the oil pump.

What does the oil pump do? This device is drawing fuel (the heating oil) from your tank.

Fuel lines are connected from your holding tank to your oil burner and the oil pump draws it out. If your system is set up right the fuel will pass through a oil filter and an internal screen of some sort to get out any more moisture or sediments. As the fuel is coming up it is highly pressurized.

This pressurized fuel, which can be over 100 psi, goes from your holding (storage) tank, through the pump, into your oil burner. As it flows through your oil burner it is turned into a very fine mist, or spray, as it flows through an oil nozzle that is attached to be in a the oil burner mechanism.

So here’s what we have so far. The fan blower is bringing in air and the pump is bringing in fuel. Two out of the three components we need for combustion. The last thing that is required is the spark to light it all.

6. The device that sparks the air in fuel on an oil burner is called the ignition transformer. You can spot this thing really easy as it is going to be a black box that is situated at the very top of the whole device.

The ignition transformer receives electricity and then converts it to a very high voltage which is then transferred to dual electrodes that is located at the end of the oil burner nozzle.

These electrodes are separated by a very small space, or gap, and and produces spark to ignite the fuel and air as it is being sprayed out of the nozzle.

There are systems in place (Cad Cell Relay, Stack Relay Switch, Flame Sensor) that will turn off any burner if there is not a flame produced. You not want your system to continuously pump heating oil out of your nozzle if it is not being used. This would be extremely dangerous!

7. So the fuel and air, coming out of the nozzle, are being ignited to produce a huge flame. This flame heats the rest of the heating system.

If you have a boiler the flame is heating the combustion chamber which in turn is heating the water which flows throughout the building. If you have a furnace the flame is heating that and that hot air is then blown throughout a room.

The combustion chamber liner prevents the oil burner from damaging the cast iron or steel boiler itself, while the hot surface of the combustion chamber liner helps make sure that all of the fine droplets of oil sprayed into the combustion chamber do in fact ignite.

9. When you’re aquastat (or thermostat) has sensed that the right temperature in a house or building has been reached it turns all the power to be oil burner off.

If you think your oil burner is failing to come on when it should or failing to go off after structure is already heated and this is the device that may be malfunctioning. Before all those other systems go on the aquastat have to tell it to. Many times this is the first device a heating technician will check.

Quick Recap of How Oil Burners Work (Summary)

These heating systems work by turning heating oil, a combustible substance, into heat.

It is pulled from your storage tank by the oil pump first.

It is pressurized and turned into vapor which then passes through your a burner’s nozzle as a very fine mist.

The mist that comes out of the nozzle is mixed with air and ignited by electrodes.

A flame is produced from this process which causes a combustion chamber or the air around it to be heated up.

And this is how many of our homes are heated.  You want to make sure you get your oil burner serviced on the recommended maintenance schedules.

There is nothing worse than having your boiler or furnace break down in the middle of winter.  Even if it is not winter you can find yourself taking cold showers if this device fails in any way.  Hopefully by being more familiar with how it works you can backtrack and try to troubleshoot some things.

My Waste Oil Boiler

Tuesday, March 17th, 2009
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I got my waste oil boiler back in 2007.  Its an Energy Logic Black Gold boiler.  Why did I go with this particular model.  In my research this brand had the highest track record and the local distributor in my area was really friendly and knowledgeable. 

Side View of My Oil Burner

Side View of My Oil Burner

I purchased the EL-200 B Waste Oil Boiler Model 200.  I bought the optional 250 gallon workbench storage tank with it.

I really liked this particular waste oil boiler.  Here are some keys facts with my particular model:

  • Fuel Flow Rate                            1.4 Gallons
  • BTU Input                                    200,000 BTU/ 58.3 kW per hour
  • Water Output Temp                    230 F
  • Domestic Hot Water Output        4.0 Gallons Per Minute
  • Weight                                        1237 lbs

The following people who have the following should think about buying a waste oil burner if they wish to save money over the course of five years and live in a place with at least three months of winter.  In floor radiant heating, paint booths, evaporation, potable hot water, truck stops, car and truck washes, make-up air, hot water, dishwashers, supplement to HVAC systems.

Energy Logics waste oil boiler also comes with a three year warranty on all parts and a ten year warranty on the heat exchanger.

If you have a huge warehouse you have to heat you might want to think about the Model 500.  It produces 8.0 gallons of hot water per minute in instead of the 4.0 gallons per minutes that my model 200 produces.

I live in Alaska and got my particular oil burner shipped from Kent, Washington.

Would really sold me on my particular boiler were a couple things.  Its known to be the most low maintenance out of all the boilers out there.  Waste oil heaters break down easier that people realize and I knew several people who had gotten them and they had problems with them from day one.  My model is known to be the most “problem free” out the all the choices.

My boiler also weighs significantly less than most cast iron boilers by a long shot yet puts out three times more heat per pound than them.  A cast iron boiler can easily weight 2100 lbs while mine weighs half of that.  That made is cheaper to be shipped and easier to install.

And finally I found that my particular waste oil boiler is the easiest to clean.  I can swing out a door and it gives me access to the combustion chamber, nozzle,tubes, and flame retention head.  To keep your oil burner running a top speed you have to clean it regularly and stay on top of it.

My 200 model cost me $5,698 for the base package.  Several things were added to that number to make it a lot more (it always is in life, isn’t it).  It cost $7,898 once you add the domestic hot water coil.  Then you add another $1198 for the 250 gallon workbench tank with furnace stand.  Then add another $94 for the plumbing and hardware package and tank gauge.  Everything was supposed to come to $6990  but there were several other things that made it closer to $8,000.  Then you have to add a little over $2,000 for shipping.  Then I had to pay this guy approximately $2,000 once it was all said and done to actually install my waste oil boiler in my shed and connect the tubing to my house and massive 1, 700 square foot new garage I built for my oil change business.  So all together I spent a good $12,000 on the whole thing.  And I also bought some add-ons after that make the system more efficient.

I said all the numbers to emphasis that this is going to be a long term return on your investment.  Your waste oil boiler is not going to pay for itself  for at least three years depending on where you live.  But once it does, think about it, you heat is virtually free.  You will not be a slave to the natural gas company any longer.  Think of how good that feels.  Its freedom.

This has been an abnormally cold winter where I live.  It was in the under zero Fahrenheit range for three weeks between late December and January 2009.  The warmest day during that period was 1 degrees for maybe an hour.  I was burning 23 gallons per day.  I got my bill and it said “$8.00″  Everyone else was getting a bill for at least $350 and that was for an average sized house.  I have a well sized house and a massive garage.  My bill would have been at least $500 that month.  But it was only sixteen dollars.  Do you know how liberating that felt?!  The meter reader reset my meter several times and keep coming back because he couldn’t understand what was going on.  Its turned from confusion into anger.  Finally he got his manager to come and check it.  He could not figure it out.  Why didn’t he just ask me what was going on??  He came back for a third time two weeks ago and was pissed off.  He thought I was tampering with the meter.  I told him I was not.  He did not believe me.  He told me that he had reset the meter several times and that he was going to get to the bottom of this.  I told him that I had a waste oil boiler.  He did not understand at first.  I guess he had meet many people with that especially in a residential neighborhood.  Who could afford it??  Anyway I had to explain and show him my set up and he calmed down.  It felt good to see his face.  I felt so free. I was out of Matrix.  At least one of my bills were.  It was satisfying to see his face so confused.  “We don’t own you anymore”?  That’s what I registered.  No, they do not.  The natural gas company here gets $8 per month from me for having the service available just in case.  Nothing more nothing less.  HA.

250 Gallon Workbench Storage Tank

250 Gallon Workbench Storage Tank

I definitely recommend an oil burner to whoever can procure the right supply of oil.  Its a truly worthwhile investment.  If you have the patience and the time to keep up with the maintenance and do not spending a large sum knowing you are going to get it back plus much more in the future you need to buy a waste oil boiler.  You will not regret it.

If you have any questions about my boiler or want to make any comments please feel free to.  I try to check this site once per day.  I will provide whatever help I can. I have also written several post about increasing  fuel efficiency for your machine as well as specific prices you will have to pay to get them.