Archive for the ‘Burner Troubleshooting’ Category

If Your Oil Burner Will Not Start

Friday, August 20th, 2010
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If your oil burner will not start here are two things you should do before calling a heating technician out.  Following them might not only save you time but a lot of money.

Make Sure You Have Fuel (Easy Fix)

This is a common problem and the easiest to solve.

Check your tank and make sure you have heating oil.  Many people run out of fuel and do not even realize it.

You should be in the habit of checking the level of your tank every so often.  Most people do not.

It’s a common mistake people make.  It’s either due to ignorance or forgetfulness but if you notice that it is low call the heating oil distributor to come re-fill your tank.  Then follow these instructions on bleeding and re-priming the oil burner pump.

Press the Reset Button (Easy Fix)

There is a small red button of the side of your oil burner that you can press.  It will usually be squared shaped.  It can get tripped for several different reasons.  This button is one this device for safety precautions and shuts the burner down should it detect something to be wrong.  Press it to reset everything and the oil burner should fire up. You may have to press it more than once but after the third time if nothing happens then there is something else wrong.

If none of the two things just mentioned worked then you need to call a qualified heating technician out.  You could troubleshoot further but if you are not trained you might do more harm than good.

Nevertheless it is important to know what the technician is going to be looking at when he comes to make a service call on your oil burner.  The following are the items he will check first.

Cad Cell Problem

The cad cell is connected to the reset button.  It is a light sensor that detects the light on the flame.  When it senses that the flame has stopped but the machine is still going it shuts down everything.  This is a one of the single most important safety mechanism for an oil burner.  You do not want flammable heating oil to still be running through your system not being ignited.  It would build up and when a spark is finally produced there could be a HUGE explosion.

The cad sensor on your oil burner could be dirty so it is not detecting the flame properly, could be broken and needing to be replaced, or something else could be wrong and the cad cell is doing its job.

Please see this post for more information about diagnosing possible cad cell relay device problems on your burner.

Weak Ignition Transformer

The transformer that ignites the two electrodes could be getting weak or barely working.  If the sparks are not strong enough then the flame required is not being produced.

Electrodes Not Set Right

The is optimal spacing of your two electrodes so that the oil being sprayed out of the nozzle is ignited just right.  If these two electrodes get out of place then the whole system will not operate like it should.

Bad Fuel Pump

This commonly happens.  Your fuel pump may be faulty and a nice constant flow of heating oil may not be going to your oil burner like it should.

Too Much Water In Oil Tank

Moisture can build up in your tank more easily than you think diluting your heating oil.  This can make it impossible for it to be burned.

Other Possible Reasons Oil Burner is Not Running (Properly)

  • Too Much Soot in Oil Burner
  • Electrical connections too loos
  • Flexible couplings are damaged
  • Faulty primary control
  • Oil Burner motor is bad

How To Troubleshoot Cad Cell Relay Control

Thursday, August 19th, 2010
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The cad cell, also known as the cadmium sulfide cell, is a major component of your oil burner system.  It is one of the primary safety control systems and is more important than most people realize.  Its main purpose: detect the presence of the oil burner flame.

This specific mechanism on your oil burner consists of three parts.  They include the actual cad cell itself, a holder, and a cord which serves to connect the cad cell with the the primary control.  It is placed inside of the air tube of your oil burner where it can easily see if the flame is operational or non existent.

A cad cell is produced from a ceramic disk made out of cadmium sulfide.  There is a conductive grid which covers the surface of it.  Also attached on the surface are electrodes and the cell itself is sealed in a glass to protect it from harm.  When in the darkness the cad cell has a huge tolerance to the an electrical current’s flow.  But, it has a very low resistance when operating in the presence of visible light.

Most heating technicians recommend that the cell cell resistance be about 300-1000 ohms for optimal operation of most oil burners.  Which this number may change slightly it should definitely not be more than 1600 ohms.  If any resistance over 1,600 ohms is seen then there is most likely a problem that should be looked at.

Understanding How Cad Cells Operate

Before we go over some basic troubleshooting methods its important that you first understand and appreciate how this control works.  First, the cad cell must have a fairly high resistant across the F-F terminals before it will try to commence the operation of your oil burner.  Again, this control does not sense light that is visible.  Should this device detect a light then the relay its attached to in the main control will not start the oil burner.

Once the oil burner is on, running, and operational with the flame on then the cad cell has to have a low resistance in order for it to prevent the primary control from igniting the safety and locking out.

Potential Cad Cell Problem #1

Its a cold winter night and the oil burner will just not start.  You think it may be the cad cell.  What do you proceed to do?

Initially, you want to go to the thermostat and double check that its calling for heat.  Make sure there is voltage going to this specific control as well.

Next, remove one of the leads on the cad cell from the attached FF terminals.  Does the oil burner start right away?  If it does not then its possible that the cad cell is sensing external light inside of the housing.  Or, quite possibly, the wires are pinched in some fashion.  There are also instances where the assembly has been shorted or the cell itself it defective.  If you can repair any of these items then by all means do so.  If not then calling a heating technician is advised.

Potential Cad Cell Problem #2

Does the oil burner start but not too long afterward locks out and you suspect that its the cad cell.  It is highly likely that the control did not sense, or see, the high resistance needed to start the oil burner.  Nevertheless, while in the lock out timing period it did not detect the low resistance needed on the cad cell to continue operation of your oil burner.  Remember that in order to prevent a lock out the resistance has to be no more than 1,600 ohms.

Here is how you fix this particular problem.  Start your oil burner.  Before the safety lock out timing period ends disconnect cell wires from the FF terminal on the main control. Then, using a piece of wire, or a 1,500 ohm resistor, jumper the FF terminal.  Doing so will allow the oil burner to continue to run so that you can inspect the cad cell resistance while its currently in its run cycle.  Now, while the burner is running proceed to connect the ohm meter across the cad cell leads.  Depending on who is the manufacturer of your oil burner will determine how much resistance you need to measure on the cad cell in order to find the root cause of the problem and take subsequent action.

Cad Cell Is Vital for Safety

Keep in mind that while the cad cell can be a pain at times it is a vital component of any oil burner.  It has proved to be extremely reliable and is a huge safety check that you should be really glad you have.  Without it unburnt fuel could collect over time without you knowing it and cause a huge explosion in the future if left unchecked for too long.

Buying and Maintaining Your Oil Burner

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010
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Brands of Oil Burners

You may find this surprising but there is not much competition.

I begin to think about this today because I have been seeing a lot of comments on sites and forums of people asking about the best brand of oil burner they can buy.

Okay- let me give you the answer to that.  Its Beckett.

And, no, they are not paying me to say that.  They don’t have to.  If Beckett has competition in the oil burner market then its a total secret.  Sure you have other companies like Weil Mclain that makes oil boilers and heating systems but they all come stocked with Beckett oil burners inside them.

That statement might not be totally fair.  There are three more manufacturers.  They are Wayne Home Equipment, Arco, and Carlin.  But they are so behind the top spot, as far as market share goes, they are barely worth mentioning.

Wayne Home Equipment might be the closest out of the three.  You will see the others pop up from time to time but for every ten houses that have oil burners I have found eight or nine of them have a Beckett AFG.

Here is a company that is in total control of their marketplace and they seem to do a fairly good job of keeping it that way.  They have a good track record and make quality products so I do not see anyone really complaining about it.

Its just funny, because this is such a common item, and you would think there would be even more companies making it and the competition being a lot more fierce.

I can tell you another thing.  They are going to have some good years ahead.  There is a good chance New York City buildings are going to be required to change out their aging boilers because of pollution concerns.  Its not a law yet but officials in the city have promised to introduce regulations over the next year to phase certain types of boilers that run on certain types of heating oil and its had the backing of Mayor Bloomberg.  That city has thousands of upon thousands of buildings and guess what type of oil burners is in all those boilers.  Hum?

Maintenance

I asked a friend who owns a heating repair company what is a common mistake that most homeowners make as far as maintenance of their oil burners (the heart of the heating system).

He said that the a good portion of the problems people encounter could be avoided if they did two things.

  1. Had their oil burners cleaned on a more regular basis
  2. Did a better job of changing the fuel filters (which filter out dirt and moisture)

Like I have said before you also want to change out the nozzles at least once a year.  They are not that expensive and get clogged easily.  I got into an argument with a furnace technician because he said a nozzle can last years.

I told him that may be so but for everyone that does there are ten that do not so why take the chance.  I have seen them for as low as $5.00.  Get them changed out on a regular basis.  Its really not that hard or expensive.

Was doing some research online and found this great article on the Massachusetts Public Safety website outlining some very good practical advice for homeowners getting their oil burner serviced.  It outlines several questions to ask the service technician as well as making sure he does his job correctly.

The majority of the heating service technicians are honest people who are not looking to rip anyone off but mistakes and items overlooked can be potentially costly for you.  In light of this I think its always a wise plan of action to at least have an idea of what they should be doing to ensure at least some measure of checks and balances.

Waste Oil Burners

I wanted to end this post by talking about waste oil heaters.  I started this blog about them but found out what when the majority of people were looking up the term “oil burner” they were not looking for information about the kind that run off waste oil.

This technology sort of a real niche-oriented thing.  More business should have them.  Especially the ones that generate any medium to large quantity of waste motor oil.

I got an waste oil boiler for my shop because that is the system my garage and home was running on.  Most large garages will actually a forced air set-up to heat their structure so they will be more interested in waste oil furnace heaters.

No matter which kind you get, be it a boiler or a furnace, you must  come up with a system to filter the oil.  I used to pass all my oil through several different types of 20-20 micron filters but they would always clog up and a couple times a had some light to medium spills.

Now I employee a WVO waste oil centrifuge and it does a marvelous job at filtering my oil before it goes into my holding tank.  It gets everything, including all the moisture, completely out.  The oil going through my nozzle is almost as clean as when it was brand new out the bottle.

It is precisely because I am so strict on the filtering process that I have not had any, not even one, problem with my heating system.  I have never had to get my boiler repaired because I get it checked out and cleaned yearly and I make sure everything that goes into it is as clean as I can get it.

As Always, Hope this Helps

Wesley